Cruise-tour of Galapagos - details and photos

Picking a package for Galapagos turned out to be a challenge - until you know: How many islands to visit?  Which ones - North or South?  What to see on each?   When?  How do you travel between islands?  Where to stay - land based vs cruise-tours?  How many days are enough?  What time of the year?  And of course, the cost?

The itineraries and prices vary wildly - from one package to another -- even within one travel company, it was very much apples and oranges.  And they were rushing us to sign up early - in January, or risk being sold out.  (Last minute deals are still available for significant savings at http://galapagosinformation.com/galapagos-cruises-last-minute.html)

Only after we started narrowing down our options based on what we wanted to see (for example, Albatross are only on Espanola), comparing cruises became a lot easier.  In the end, we signed up with http://www.southernexplorations.com/galapagos-island-cruises/nemo-i - itinerary B on Nemo I Catamaran for South Islands for 10 days/9 nights, starting either in Quito (capital) or Guayaquil (largest city), depending on our connecting international flights.

As we later found out, there are only a limited number of cruise ships allowed to operate in the Galapagos.  Those cruise operators prefer that tourists sign up through travel agencies such as Southern Explorations, instead of signing up directly with them.  So all travel agencies are merely intermediaries competing for the same tourists on the same cruises.  We were the only ones on Nemo I signed up through Southern Explorations.  Rest came through other agencies - and probably paid different prices.

Typical itinerary

You arrive at Quito/Guayaquil on Day 1 (Sun) and leave on Day 10 (Tue.)  On Day 2 (Mon), you fly to Galapagos to begin the cruise-tour, spend 8 days and fly back on Day 9 (Mon.), as follows:

MONDAY

Daily activity was detailed on the white board for everyone's reference

Bachas Beach, Santa Cruz – These two small beaches are found to the west of Turtle Cove. The sand is made of decomposed coral, making it white and soft, and thus a favorite nesting site for sea turtles. Behind one of the beaches is a small brackish lagoon, where it is possible to observe flamingos and other coastal birds, such as black-necked stilts and whimbrels. On the other beach are two barges that were abandoned during World War II when the U.S. used Baltra Island as a strategic point to protect the Panama Canal.  Afterwards, we snorkeled at that beach - just getting our feet wet, so to speak.  We did see a giant turtle and many fish - small and large.

TUESDAY

Tintoreras & Tortoise Breeding Center, Isabela - Today’s first excursion is a hike followed by snorkeling at Tintoreras, a group of tiny islands off the coast of the town of Puerto Villamil on Isabela Island. White-tipped reef sharks (or “Tintoreras”) are common in the shallow waters surrounding these islands, and you may encounter eagle rays, sea turtles, and perhaps even penguins.  This is a great snorkeling spot as well as a fantastic place to view marine iguanas.

In the afternoon, we visited La Galapaguera, a breeding center with interpretative trails where giant tortoises can be viewed in captivity.  Walking to the Galapaguera center, you will pass over a boardwalk through a brackish lagoon for a view of flamingos.

WEDNESDAY

Punta Cormorant & Devil’s Crown, Floreana – Punta Cormorant, located on the northern shore of Floreana, offers a large salt lagoon, situated between two volcanic tuff cones, where flamingos nest. You may also observe other aquatic birds including black-necked stilts and white-cheeked pintail ducks. On this visit, you will see the two distinct beaches: “Green Beach,” named for the presence of the mineral olivine in the sand here, and “Flour Sand Beach,” made of finely ground coral.

Devil's Crown

Just off Punta Cormorant lies Devil’s Crown, which offers excellent snorkeling. In fact, the only way to see the Crown is by water; it is termed a Marine Visitor Site and no landings are allowed. This site is an almost completely submerged volcanic crater, and erosion has transformed the cone into a series of jagged peaks; as a result, this site truly resembles a crown rising from the water.

THURSDAY

Punta Suarez & Gardner Bay, Española – Disembarking at Punta Suarez, you will witness the highest rate of “endemicism” in the Galapagos.  Sea lions noisily greet you as you land on their beach.  Curious mockingbirds peck at your shoelaces.  From April to November, waved albatross perform their mating rituals only on Española.  Colonies of blue-footed boobies engage in “sky-pointing” while masked boobies busily care for their young.  Stunning swallow-tailed gulls and red-billed tropicbirds take shelter under the cliffs. Other species endemic to Española include Darwin’s Finches, Galapagos Doves and Galapagos Hawks.  Observe the unique species of Española marine iguana identified with traces of red and green colorings. Colorful Sally Lightfoot crabs crawl along the shoreline near the famous "blow hole.”

Later that day on Gardner Bay on Española, walk along seemingly endless stretches of sandy beach where you’ll find colonies of sea lions. Swim and snorkel with the sea lions and enjoy the colorful diversity of sea life near Gardner Islet.

We decided to finish up early so we could return back to Santa Cruz early that night.  Before sunset, there was a possibility of seeing dolphins race along with our boat (didn't happen) or watching humpback whales - which we did.  A couple of them were very close to the boat - we could see their backs as well as fins out of the water.  We also saw 5-6 spouts all around as humpbacks came up to surface to breathe (the captain reportedly saw 20-25 of them.)  That created some excitement for the afternoon.

The real reason, as we discovered later, was that most of the crew was from Santa Cruz, and they really wanted to go home for the night.

FRIDAY

Highlands & Darwin Station, Santa Cruz – This morning, you venture into the Santa Cruz Highlands. Watch the scenery change as the bus winds its way through all seven vegetation zones found in Galapagos. The bird watching here is exceptional, as almost every bird species found in the islands is present, and Galapagos tortoises are also a common site. In addition to the abundant wildlife, the Highlands offer a look at the geology of the Galapagos with plenty of lava tubes, sinkholes, and craters to explore.

One of the main attractions at the Charles Darwin Research Station is the Tortoise Breeding Center, where you can compare the different shells of the various varieties of Galapagos tortoise. At the Van Straelen Exhibition Hall, you can see displays illustrating different aspects of the Galapagos ecosystem, and learn about conservation problems facing the islands and the programs in place to combat these problems.  Alternatively, you can visit Tortuga Beach a short hike away.

SATURDAY

Cerro Brujo & Punta Pitt,  San Cristobal - On the northeastern tip of San Cristobal, Punta Pitt is the only location in the Galapagos where it is possible to see all three species of boobies. After landing on a green sand beach, the color due to a high concentration of the mineral olivine, you will climb a path to the top of the point.  Along the way, you may pass great frigatebirds and red-footed boobies nesting in the trees with blue-footed boobies and nazca boobies on the ground.

One of the first sites visited by Charles Darwin, Cerro Brujo is a beautiful white sand beach where brown pelicans, blue-footed boobies, sea lions, and marine iguanas are all found. You may wish to explore the nearby lagoon, swim and snorkel or climb the hill for views of Leon Dormido.

SUNDAY

Santa Fe – The morning takes you to Santa Fe Island, which lies to the southeast of Santa Cruz. After disembarking, you walk over the white sand beach, likely finding your way around sleeping sea lions as you go.  On the interior of the island, you may see Santa Fe land iguanas, Galapagos hawks, and rice rats. There are great opportunities to snorkel in the clear, shallow water where green sea turtles and sting rays are often found.

South Plaza – The tiny Plaza Islands lie off the east coast of Santa Cruz and are composed of North Plaza and South Plaza.  At two square kilometers, South Plaza is one of the smallest islands where you will disembark, but it is also one of the most concentrated wildlife sites in the Galapagos. After landing at a small dock, you follow a trail up past prickly pear cacti with their bright yellow flowers to a cliff where you can view swallow-tailed gulls, red-billed tropic birds, blue-footed boobies, nazca boobies, and magnificent frigatebirds. Continue along the path, perhaps spotting both land and marine iguanas, and eventually come to a colony of bachelor bull sea lions.

MONDAY

Black Turtle Cove, Santa Cruz – Today, you are on the lookout for sea turtles. On the north shore of the Santa Cruz, accessible only by sea, is an extensive mangrove lagoon called Caleta Tortuga Negra (Black Turtle Cove).  Here among the mangroves, turtles enjoy swimming in the calm waters, peaking their heads above the surface while fish, rays and small sharks circle below.